Hotel Marqués de Riscal, a Luxury Collection Hotel

Frank Gehry's building at Elciego is the least subtle thing in Rioja and entirely deliberate: curling ribbons of pink, gold and silver titanium folded over a nineteenth-century winery, visible for miles across the vineyards. It opened in 2006 as part of the Marqués de Riscal City of Wine, and the contrast with the sandstone village below has not worn off.

Inside there are sixty-one rooms and suites, split between the Gehry structure and a quieter annexe, all with angled windows framing either the vines or the village church. The Vinothérapie spa by Caudalie uses grape-derived treatments, which in this setting is less of a gimmick than it sounds.

The winery itself dates from 1858 and its cellars, including a library of bottles going back to the nineteenth century, are open to guests. Dining is overseen by Michelin-starred chef Francis Paniego across two restaurants, and Rioja Alavesa's other bodegas, along with the walled town of Laguardia, are within a short drive.