Hartwell House & Spa

Hartwell House is one of three Historic House Hotels given to the National Trust, which means the profits go back into the fabric of the building rather than to shareholders. The house itself is a curiosity: a Jacobean front and a Georgian rear, joined without much apology, with a Rococo staircase and plasterwork ceilings that would justify an admission charge on their own.

Louis XVIII of France spent five years in exile here at the start of the nineteenth century, holding a shadow court in rooms guests now sleep in. The 90-odd acres of parkland were laid out in the eighteenth century and still carry their lake, bridge, obelisk and ruined Gothic church, all of it best seen on the circuit walk before breakfast.

The spa occupies a converted stable block a short walk from the house and includes an indoor pool, steam room and gym. Dining is traditional and properly done, and Waddesdon Manor, Stowe and the Chiltern ridge are all within half an hour.