Grand Hotel Kronenhof

Kronenhof sits in Pontresina, a few minutes down the valley from St Moritz and a world away in atmosphere, and it is the better building of the two. The hotel dates to 1848 and its neo-baroque public rooms, frescoed ceilings, a grand hall, a billiard room that has barely changed, are among the most impressive interiors in the Alps and are still in daily use rather than roped off.

There are 112 rooms and suites, many reworked by the designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, with several sets able to interconnect for families. The front of the house looks straight down the Roseg valley to the glacier, which is the view to pay for. The spa runs to 2,000 square metres over several levels with an indoor pool and whirlpool angled at the mountains, plus saunas, steam rooms and treatment cabins.

Pontresina is a serious base for both seasons. In winter the Diavolezza, Corviglia and Corvatsch ski areas are all within reach on the same pass, and the Engadin is also the best cross-country skiing region in the Alps. In summer it is hiking, the Bernina railway and the valley lakes. The hotel closes for a long spring break each year, reopening in June.